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The first stage of the Haute Route climbs from the mountain village of Argentière (1250 m) to the Refuge d’Argentière (2771 m), a strikingly located hut above the glacier of the same name. Surrounded by the huge rock and ice walls of the Mont Blanc massif, the hut makes a spectacular start to the multi-day ski traverse to Zermatt.
Ascent to the Refuge d’Argentière
If you want to complete the Haute Route entirely under your own power, you start right in Argentière and climb through the Grands Montets area towards the Glacier d’Argentière. The long ascent gains around 1500 m and finally crosses glaciated terrain to the hut.
Many ski tourers, however, use the Grands Montets lifts to shorten the first day considerably. From Argentière, the gondola takes you into the ski area, and the Bochard or Herse lifts gain further height. Depending on the starting point you choose and current conditions, the approach then continues across the Glacier d’Argentière to the hut.
The route across the glacier offers impressive views of the steep north faces of the Aiguille Verte, the Droites and the Courtes. Even though the remaining distance is comparatively short when using the lifts, this is high alpine, heavily crevassed terrain that requires the right equipment and experience.
Lifts and the reopening of the Grands Montets
The original cable car to the Aiguille des Grands Montets (3275 m) was badly damaged by a fire in September 2018 and had to be taken out of service.
It is being rebuilt in two phases: the new gondola from Argentière to Lognan is due to open in December 2026. The new 3S cable car from Lognan to the Grands Montets summit station is to follow in winter 2027/2028.
Until the full reopening, the approach can still use the existing lifts in the ski area, in particular the Plan Joran gondola and the Bochard and Herse lifts. Check actual operating times and available connections before setting out.
Overnight stay and next stage
The Refuge d’Argentière stands at 2771 m and offers an impressive view across the Glacier d’Argentière and the surrounding peaks. The hut is a popular base for many demanding ski tours in the Mont Blanc massif.
For the Haute Route, spending the night here makes particular sense because it allows a comparatively relaxed first day. The next morning, the crossing of the Col du Chardonnet and the onward route towards the Cabane de Saleinaz begin one of the first technically demanding sections of the historic route.
Planning notes
The approach to the Refuge d’Argentière can vary greatly in length depending on the use of lifts. A full ascent from the valley involves around 1500 m of climbing. With lift support, the physical effort is greatly reduced, while the remaining route depends on the top station you choose.
The Glacier d’Argentière is heavily crevassed and requires careful route finding. Conditions can change considerably over the season. Poor visibility, high avalanche danger or unfavourable glacier conditions in particular can make the approach demanding or impossible.